15:00
pm (local, GMT-3) : we land in Mount Pleasant after a long and tiring
journey started on Tuesday 23:30 pm (GMT).The temperature outside is far
different from the one on the Ascension Island where we had an hour-stopover.
Once all the luggage and boxes are collected, we go through the security
check and get a stamp on our passport. For me, the adventure starts at
this exact moment. The transit between Mount Pleasant and Stanley is done
by coach, allowing us to discover the East Falkland. The view is splendid
: colourful low-growing vegetation, white grass, peat, sand, rocks and
in the background mountains. On the way, it is possible to travel miles
without seeing any houses or man-made structures apart from fences and
tracks. It is approximately 17:00 pm when we finally arrive at Port Stanley.
The vision of both the Ernest Shackleton and the James Clark Ross is very
impressive. Then, the end of the day consists on settling in the scientific
cabin that I share with the three other women involved in the hydrographic
campaign, having one of the famous three course meals in the officer's
dining room and enjoying a nice after dinner drink in the bar.
Thursday
27th November 2003
I
wake up at 7:00 am. I am not an early bird so I need a great shower to
really wake me up !!! The breakfast is served at 7:30 am. I opt for fried
egg on toast with bacon and a cup of coffee. In the morning and the afternoon,
the principal activity is to dispatch and secure all the equipment in
the different labs where we are going to work. We also have free time
to discover Stanley, which is a 40 minute walk from the ship. Walking
is very nice, as we have not had any physical exercise in the last few
days. The air temperature is about 4°C and the wind
blows in the west direction with a force of 6. We leave the JCR in sunshine
but the weather rapidly changes and we witness an alternance of showers
and sunshine. I read in a book the of the Falklands’ saying : “if
you do not like the weather wait 15 minutes”. Hum … no doubt…
you really need to be prepared for sudden changes.
Back on the ship, after dinner, I go in bed (the upper berth) very early
as the last few days have been intense.
Friday
28th November 2003
The
breakfast is still at the same time… I have to get used to it !
We are supposed to sail for Rothera at 13:00 pm. We have our last morning
on land free. Ally and I decide to go to Gypsy Cove, reputed for its variety
of wildlife, in particular the penguins. It is about one hours walk but
we take a taxi to allow ourselves more time over there.
Approaching Gypsy Cove, the vision is impressive. The beach is splendid
: white sand and blue clear waters. If the temperature was not so cold
we could easily think that we are in the Caribbean!!! Moreover, we are
lucky, the morning is pretty sunny revealing even more amazing colours.
From the car park we follow the tracks, which leads us directly in the
vicinity of a small group of Magellanic penguins. It is my introduction
to penguins .........so exciting!
It is a shame not to visit this place ! Breathtaking landscapes and fascinating
wildlife ! 10:00 am, we decide to walk back to the ship. On our way, the
wind does not help us at all, it blows in the opposite direction making
our progression difficult.
At the same time, containers and fresh food are loading onboard the JCR.
Before lunch we have a quick briefing with the catering officer and we
are strongly recommended to take some seasickness pills.
13:00 pm : everything is now ready, the JCR leaves Stanley for Rothera.
I am really excited by the idea of being part of a scientific cruise in
the Southern Ocean.
17:30 pm : I am lying on my bed (with another person in my cabin) because
my stomach is not particularly happy with the actual movements of the
vessel. The sea is rough, a lot of white caps can be observed on top of
the waves. After a first attempt to have dinner, I decide to come back
to my cabin hoping that I would feel better soon….....
Saturday
29th November 2003
I
am very tired this morning, as the pills did not really work for me. I
am strongly advised to use a 72 hours patch instead of the seasickness
pills.
I spent most of the day sleeping, trying to recover from the previous
night.
Sunday
30th November 2003
7:00
am : my alarm clocks wakes me up. I feel much better today. The weather
has improved notably. We are now in calm seas with light winds.
9:30 am : we are at our stations for our first CTD cast as a test. The
CTD is put in the water.
12:05 pm : the CTD recovered, we collect water samples ( 2 samples for
each of the 12 bottles ) and transfer the data to the computer to analyse
them.
At the same time, the geophysics survey has started and the activity on
the deck in the afternoon is focused on several dredges.
We organise our team for watchkeeping. I have been attributed the slot
16:00pm – 20:00 pm. So, I have a couple of hours after lunch to
chill out in the bar. I enjoy spending time in the bar, as there is always
someone with a great story to tell.
Thursday
4th December 2003
ICEBERGS
!!! Whaou … such a nice view when you wake up ! I have been waiting
since the departure to see icebergs, and here they are : huge, majestic
! Moreover we are very lucky as it is very sunny. It is difficult to contain
my excitement! It is going to be a great day today!
During the morning, I take millions of pictures with my digital camera
… colours are always different.
In the afternoon, the captain announces that we are going to be close
to the Deception Island by 16:00 pm (local). So between 16:00 pm and 17:00
pm almost everyone is on the “monkey island”, the highest
point in the ship (offering the best view), warmly clothed and camera
in hand ready to shoot. Once again we are offered a fantastic view ! I
spend most of my day outside in spite of the cold.
Friday
5th December 2003
The night has been short as we wake up at 4:00 am. We are now approaching
Port Lockroy where we are going to leave three fellows on the island for
the duration of the austral summer. Astonishing, amazing, majestic! …
Unfortunately my English is not good enough to explain what we see.
Around 7:00 am we arrive in the waters of Port Lockroy (named after the
French politician Etienne-Auguste-Edouard Lockroy (1840-1913)… “Vive
la France!” ). The British station is based on the Goudier Island.
The waters are relatively shallow so to reach it the cargo tender is launched.
I am one of the lucky people to be taken on board.
On the island, the two modest buildings are literally surrounded by Gentoo
penguins....... Incredible! There are penguins everywhere. The place offers
fantastic scenery that I will not forget. I feel definitely very lucky
to be part of this science cruise !!! Next stop : Rothera .......(tomorrow)
The globe pinpoints Rothera's position.
Saturday
6th December 2003
On
the way to Rothera, the view is really impressive as we navigate close
to the Peninsula. Moreover, the visibility is exceptional. On the bridge,
I have been told that we can see more than hundred miles away.
The weather is incredibly good, some people are wearing tee-shirts* I
am not, still too cold for me! In addition, I need to put on a lot of
sun cream if I do not want to burn with the sun, so I have a white face.......
Note that I never had a mat complexion anyway*
Just before arrival in Rothera we do a CTD cast. It is quick as the depth
is about 350m.
15:00 pm : We just finish the CTD in time to see the manoeuvre of approach
to the Rothera base. A lot of people are on Monkey Island to observe this
moment.
I see four buildings and a huge hangar. Such a difference to Lockroy !
I am impatient to discover more about this place but for the moment we
have been told to stay onboard.
Sunday 7th December 2003
I
volunteer to help with cargo so I work on the shift 8am-2pm. it is a rather
physical work. I try my best to help but some boxes are definitely to
heavy for me !
In the afternoon I manage to have a look around in the base. I walk around
the point. It is beautiful ! I see a group of seals. They look inactive,
so I manage to get closer to take photos. They are huge ! I am really
excited as it is the first time that I am so close to seals and I see
so many at the same time. I spent time to observe them. The walk takes
approximately 40 minutes and ends on a culminating point allowing a 360°
overview of the area. Whaou ! I am impressed !
In the evening, the ship is very quiet, as the BAS people have left now
the JCR to settle on the base.
Monday 8th December 2003
Same
timetable as yesterday.
In the evening at the bar, someone asks me if I would like to stay here.
Humm* Well, I had the desire to come to the Antarctic for a while. Now
here I am, and it is even better than I imagined! So my answer is "Yes,
of course!" I cannot say anything about the atmosphere on the base
but I am definitely under the charm of the location! It is difficult to
explain what I feel here* it is such a peaceful place, you really feel
disconnect from the rest of the world. The notion of time is also difficult
to keep as there is no night.
Thursday 18th December 2003
First
of all, all my apologies for the late appearance of news. The delay is
partly due to CTD work. We left Rothera on Tuesday 9th of December. With
Rothera sinking behind us, we headed towards Stanley with a lot of work
to do on the way north as 30 CTD casts (in addition to the 2 already done)
are on the program of the week. The first CTD was launched on day 345
(i.e. 11th December) at 15h51 and the last one has been recovered on day
349 at 17h14. That was quick, we probably beat all records on this section
!!!
At each station, the CTD is lowered from the ship to near the seabed,
measuring pressure, temperature, salinity and water velocities. In addition
at ten depths, water samples are captured in bottles. These samples are
analysed onboard ship to make a precise determination of the sample’s
salinity and compared it with the CTD’s measurements. Once the CTD
are recovered, the data are processed and analysed.
We arrived back in Stanley on Tuesday, a bit less than a day after the
last CTD.
We decided yesterday to allow ourselves a nice break and discover more
about the Falklands Islands. So, Ally, Cathy, Rebecca and I went to Volonteer
Point, which is one of the most popular tourist sites in the Falklands.
Volonteer Point is to the north of Berkeley Sound, named after the ship
Volonteer in which the American navigator Captain Fanning called at Port
Louis in 1815. The site is famous for its white sands beach and the King,
Magellanic and Gentoo Penguin colonies. To get there, you need 2h30 to
3h off road across peaty and rocky fields with a 4x4 car. It is a real
adventure!
Once there, the scenery is fantastic! Hundreds and hundreds of penguins...they
are everywhere! One of the Volunteer Point guidelines says: “ give
all penguins right of way along the beach and on the green” (not
to distress them). Well, it is a new concept for me … but true,
over there you give the right of way to penguins!
I spend a lot of time on the beach watching the king penguins. Spectacular!
Just imagine … white sand, blue-green clear waters and blue sky
… and king penguins! Penguins are really amazing birds and the way
they walk is really funny! Whaou ! I realise once again how lucky I am.
Now,
only two days left before our flight back to UK. Two days during which
we are going to finish our work and pack everything and chill out. The
JCR adventure is close to its end. I relay enjoyed every moment (except
perhaps the first night on sea), it has been a truly inspiring trip and
if I have the opportunity to do it again I would without any hesitation
!